Barms-Buecher, Steingrubler Riesling 2013

Details

20-year-old vines, certified biodynamic since 2001. A Wettolsheim vineyard, 0.56 ha, with south and east exposure and marl/clay/oligocene limestone with two-mica granite. Medium-steep slope. 6,500 vines/ha, 38 hl/ha. Long fermentation with natural yeast. 10 months in demi-muids on gross lees. Bottled August 2014. TA 7.2 g/l, RS 4.5 g/l. 1,500 bottles made.

Sweeter nose than the Hengst, airy clouds of tropical fruit. Spice and lots of saffron, with the Leimental angularity and tension, but a bit denser, bigger bone structure, bigger footprint. Where the Leimental was linear, this is rectangular, with very fierce strong straight lines. Softened just a little toward the core, with notes of redbush tea and cumin, bit of dried orange peel. Long, complex, folded tightly across the palate. Bit of power here. (Tamlyn Currin) – 17 points out of 20 (Excellent)